We Belong in the Ocean…

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the past 2 days have been flat so when i got up this morning in the dark and seen some little waves breaking, i was so happy!  nobody knew there were waves because the parking lot was empty, and so were the lineups.  and it’s Sunday!  only a few know the best time of day to be in the ocean.  and that is right about now…Carter and i have been foiling a lot recently.  and in this sport, the only way to get better is to practice.  and if you practice, you will be able to turn like this.  but before that, you will have the biggest wipeouts of your life.  haha.i couldn’t believe how good the waves were this morning.  and i couldn’t believe how empty it was.  i must have caught 15 waves in the 2 hours we were out.  then after my refreshing morning session, i went to work on Mayuki.  i’m making every little thing perfect.  tomorrow i’m putting her back where she belongs, in the ocean!  yeah!!!

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide