good morning. gosh, last night’s party for todd was freakin awesome. the vibe, the people, the everything. it was well put together and hopefully galen will send me some photos so you can see the support for our local surfers here in hawaii.
there was a silent auction that had the coolest things. some lucky winners were todd mitsui with the nice koa box, nick mita with the poke tray, toru-san with the koa bowl, and happy me with my yokoji 3 prong. and who ever won the wade tokoro surfboard, shane hanamoto gyukaku prints, kayak, and other 100 cool stuff scored big time….
this is a photo of yuko, bethany hamilton, and jeannie chesser. bethany is another shark attack victim that turned something bad into good. todd must have been stoked she showed up to support him. i was stoked myself…. more stories later but gotta get in the water to shake off the 7 steinlager pure’s and 3 jack and cokes…. ahhhhh…..
THE PERFECT DAY: DATE: JUNE 2, 2008 LOCATION: INDIAN OCEAN PHOTO: JEFF DIVINE
get this story. we all boarded our boat in timor for the start of our indonesia boat trip. matt wakabayashi brought the current surfing magazine along with him. there was a spread in there of this secret spot somewhere in the indian ocean. we asked our captain where it was and he had no idea. it would be pretty much impossible to find it sailing around but it was always in our mind. especially because there was only 2 surfing magazines on the boat for 2 weeks. i must have seen this spread over and over, along with everybody else….. then it was our last day on the boat. we pulled up into this bay for a morning surf and it was where we were going to get picked up for a 2 hour night time hell drive over some of the most dangerous mountains in indonesia back to the airport. matt was lying down reading the same magazine, probably his 10th time. then he yells “WAIT”. looks back, and says “THIS IS THE SPOT!!” we all ran to him to see for ourselves. and yes, it was indeed the exact same spot….
THE BUSTED DAY: DATE: OCTOBER 1, 2008 LOCATION: INDIAN OCEAN PHOTO: KIRBY FUKUNAGA
so we get out our cameras and document the weirdest thing. landing in the same secret surf spot that millions of surfers are probably searching for. if it wasn’t for matt, we would all still be wondering where the heck that spot was…..
look good. by chance? i don’t think so. IF YOU DON’T GO, YOU WON’T KNOW. and i think everybody that was from hawaii on the boat would agree with that. that’s the kind of moments that make traveling worth it. thanks matt for being so observant in finding out a secret spot that 12 people in hawaii now know about….
**by the way, the north shore is going off again today. pipe/backdoor 8′ and epic…. see ya…
