Slow Down and Connect…

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my magic foil board broke yesterday so i was super sad.  this morning, i rode another one that is too narrow for me so i was kind of nervous paddling out.

and the waves were kind of hollow so the take offs were kind of tricky.  so i get a few waves, made sure i slowed down, and connected with the new board, and also the perfect waves. i felt like i was foiling in slow motion but i’m still going pretty dam fast!

it took me 2 waves and i felt what this board is capable of.  then it was time to step it up and foil the board like how it wants to be foiled.  here i am finishing a backside cutback and setting up to return to the wave.

then i just go for it and hit the white wash.  i felt my foil wing pop out from behind the wave but i stayed focused and completed the maneuver.  so after all, i was nervous for nothing because all i had to do was connect and everything will be alright.  i teach that to my students, but still have to teach myself that.  haha…

the sun popped up and i went in a very happy man.  life in a lockdown is fantastic…

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide