my magic foil board broke yesterday so i was super sad. this morning, i rode another one that is too narrow for me so i was kind of nervous paddling out.
and the waves were kind of hollow so the take offs were kind of tricky. so i get a few waves, made sure i slowed down, and connected with the new board, and also the perfect waves. i felt like i was foiling in slow motion but i’m still going pretty dam fast!
it took me 2 waves and i felt what this board is capable of. then it was time to step it up and foil the board like how it wants to be foiled. here i am finishing a backside cutback and setting up to return to the wave.
then i just go for it and hit the white wash. i felt my foil wing pop out from behind the wave but i stayed focused and completed the maneuver. so after all, i was nervous for nothing because all i had to do was connect and everything will be alright. i teach that to my students, but still have to teach myself that. haha…
the sun popped up and i went in a very happy man. life in a lockdown is fantastic…