Blue Rays and Ginger Chicken

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form the look of this photo, it doesn’t seem dark, but it’s actually pretty dark.  so dark you can only see a step ahead.  i seen some surfers using a flashlight to get down the mountain at Diamond Head.  i try to use sense and feeling.  one little step at a time.  it’s like hiking in the dark which can be pretty cool…

and recently i’ve been sitting on the beach waiting for the sun to show.  watching it from the ocean is amazing, but watching it from the beach is amazing too.

blue and orange rays.  a start of a very beautiful day!

this year has had to be the best Summer for consistency.  there’s been waves every single day! i was craving ginger chicken so i went to eat my favorite ginger chicken plate.  i’ve been eating this ever since i was in high school and i never get disappointed.  so good!

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide