ONE from Hawaii!

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my dearest friend holli asked me “how do you have so much energy to do all the things you do?” to be honest, i don’t know. i think i have much more energy now then i did as a teenager. i’m constantly moving around, and can’t stay in the same place for too long. my mind is going full speed and my body is trying to keep up. here i am packing up my bags for another trip, including M5. i actually had to take out things from my last trip because i was too busy to unpack. but every time i pack, things are getting a lot more simple. i don’t need things i needed before. i don’t want thing i wanted before. i just want happiness, and happiness around me. i live a hectic lifestyle, but when you think about it, all i need is the ocean. the other day i was so stressed out about things. my mind was going crazy and almost overheated. i was getting upset at the smallest things. i had a full schedule ahead but i cancelled an appointment to go jump in the water. after i caught my first wave, i was in peace. so simple.
about the other priceless night. some of my family and friends surprised me at this bar i go to sometimes. it was like a belated birthday/We Are One party. i was really surprised when i walked in to see everybody. actually, emotionless. i want to thank everybody for always surprising me, but at the same time, i want to say sorry for my mind not being all there. honestly, i’m not in the celebrating mode this year. if it was last year, i would be jumping up, yelling, screaming, and drinking until the morning sunrise. this year, things are different. my mind is still in tohoku. the things i saw and the stories i’ve been told is like an ever lasting scar. no, i’m not traumatized. i’m just concerned for the victims, and i’m worried about the future. yes, i live in the most beautiful place in the world, but japan is like my second home and has been for half my life. there will be a day when i will return to the crazy kirby that everybody runs away from. but for now, there isn’t not much for me to celebrate. when things return in tohoku 100% and i see it with my own eyes, i will throw the biggest party in the world. but until then, please don’t forget about what happened on march 11th, 2011. some people are still suffering.
it was an honor to receive such a special letter from Governor Neil Abercrombie, and Mayor Peter Carlisle for our WE ARE ONE efforts. the support of my family, friends, strangers, and the government is what’s keeping WE ARE ONE going strong. like i said after M1, i’m in this for the long run. i’ll be in tohoku from saturday and i’m hoping for the best. and once again, thank you all for the support! aloha

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide