omg, did you see the sunrise this morning??? i was foiling at Bowls and was totally mesmerized…
we are so lucky to get a South swell in November!!! it was crowded but plenty of waves for everyone. sorry to everyone for pumping around catching every wave i could today. i thought i was a kid and had Disneyland all to myself. haha…
localism? there is a longboard guy that always drops in on people. he would never look back and i always thought, “one day, he’s going to drop in on the wrong guy.” and today was that day. he dropped in on a local, got yelled at, he got a board thrown at his head, and he even got punched. usually i would stop people from getting beaten up, but today i couldn’t. i just watched and told my friend i was surfing with, “see, this is how some people have to learn. it’s sad, but this is surfing culture not only in Hawaii, but in the world.” it was actually good to see because some surfers don’t have any manners these days. and it’s annoying and very dangerous…
one person per wave, that’s the way it supposed to be. and another worldwide rule is locals get priority. so if you’re a visitor, don’t even try to drop in on a local. anyway, the waves were absolutely perfect!!!
yesterday, Hawaii opened up to Japanese tourists. but when i was driving through Waikiki this morning, i didn’t see a single tourist around. when will this pandemic end???
