when ever i foil now, i think about how i can hunt at the same time. if i hit fish, i will stop, dive down and get it, and take it home and eat it. i really think that will happen someday…
there is a secrets spot where you can paddle out 500 yards, turn around, and ride a wave all the way to the beach. it’s the best feeling, as well as the best workout in the world…
i hardly shortboard anymore because i feel like i can foil just as good now. and the feeling is 10x more exciting…
style is everything…
i saw this weird mermaid hanging on the tree at Diamond Head a few months ago. i didn’t know what it was until Jeannie Chesser sent me a photo of hers yesterday. she said it is called “Stella.” who’s Stella???