Carter and i went to a secret foiling spot early this morning. it was still dark and we were the first ones there. paddling out to an empty ocean is the best feeling in the world!
the sun started to rise, just the two of us sharing wave after wave. this was how clear and beautiful it was…
then it got foggy. some weird California haze making it look weird. but who cares when you’re foiling a perfect wave like this. it was Carter’s first time out here and i’m sure it’s not his last.
this spot has the longest rides on the island. just imagine paddling out triple the distance of Bowls, and riding the waves all the way to the beach. this is called “foilers paradise.”
it’s cool how the fog makes the sunrise look so cool! the only thing was, it wasn’t really fog. it was water that got into my iPhone and flooded the case. causing it to fog and i’m not sure if it will ever work the same again. but it was worth the shot…
i was tired from waking up at 2:30am again. we got home at 9am and still had the whole day ahead of us. so after a little nap, i went to check out Diamond Head. i couldn’t believe hardly anybody was out. grabbed my foil, ran down the cliff, rode 5 waves, and i was done for the day. it was like a super bonus for me. i’m totally burnt out, but stoked!
