this is Pipeline. a lot of people don’t know how crazy the current is. it can be very calm one minute, and then turn into a raging river the other. take yesterday for example. look at all that water moving in the inside. the current is ripping so fast from left to right that it’s creating waves in the opposite direction. if you’re an experienced surfer, you can use this current to get you out to the lineup. if you’re not experienced, jumping in the water near the shore break might be your last day living. you could literally be 5′ off the sand and if a wave comes and drags you into the ocean, 99% of people wouldn’t know what to do. then comes the panic. then comes death looking right at you. then comes a surfer or lifeguard to save your life. that might be your lucky day. it happens all the time. so yeah, the ocean can be so beautiful one minute, and a nightmare the other. please be safe and don’t go near when the waves are big. take your selfie from the safe dry sand. and if you ever get caught up in the raging ocean, being calm and going with the flow will save your life. that goes the same in the ocean, and same on the land…
