another beautiful morning here in Hawaii. the ocean was much more smoother and perfect than yesterday. i guess you can say this is paradise…
good to see the locals out enjoying the sunrise. every time a surfer passes me by, this is what i’m looking at.
i can look at this all day long…
then after the sunrise golden moment was over, it was time to get busy. omg, i can’t believe how fun this is!!!
then this afternoon i took a drive by Diamond Head and couldn’t believe how good it was! i must have timed it perfectly because it was actually pretty empty…
so i run down the hill, paddle out, and enjoy my 2nd session of the day.
it’s very rare to see Diamond Head like this. not to many surfers, and absolutely perfect conditions. tomorrow somewhere will be perfect again and i’ll be there for sure. maybe once, or maybe twice. nobody knows, including myself. haha…
