after traveling for the past 30 years, i’m loving the slow life here in Hawaii, but i’m surely missing Japan a lot.
i miss chasing typhoons and surfing secret spots with just a few friends. 30 years ago never had the internet or cell phones so you just had to know where to go. and sometimes you would show up to a spot with nobody around. i’ve had many sessions like that but those days are over. i guess i had it pretty dam good…
then i’d come in from a surf session in the evening and see something like this. i love Japanese culture and this is as deep as it gets. 
then the long drives across Japan with friends. taking turns driving, taking turns sleeping, and listening to Neil Diamond the whole way. this is surf culture and you become like family after trips like this. 
and i miss the kids. every time i’d go back and see them growing and growing. so yeah, not being able to go to Japan is frustrating for me. that’s my home, i have family there, i have friends there, and i have the most amazing time when ever i’m there. when this pandemic is done, i think i might have to live there again to make up for the lost time. hopefully soon. missing you JPN…
