Heartbreak

237

it was like a dream come true to see Joshua and Seth becoming the 11th pair of brothers to surf in the same Pipeline Masters.  but today, that dream ended as they didn’t advance to the next round.  i watched both of their heats and i was heartbroken.  one part of me was shocked, one part of me was angry, one part of me was speechless, and one part of me almost punched the wall.  i don’t like to watch my nephews lose, but at the same time, i know that it will only make them stronger.  it’s going to be tough for them to watch the rest of the contest because they both know they should still be in it.  sometimes you win, and sometimes you lose.  i don’t care if i lose, but it breaks my heart when i see these kids lose.  i hope my pain goes away soon…

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide