Back in Shonan….

277

good morning. got back late last night from a long day and a long road trip. been all over the place these past 2 weeks. scored good waves, good dives, good food, and good friends. yesterday was probably the longest day. it started out at 3am when k-san, kinsan, and i headed on a 3 hour drive to nanki, wakayama. the drive was through the mountains and i was in the back seat so i started getting car sick. finally arrived at this cool river mouth and the waves were going off. chest high and perfect but i was feeling so sick. watched the waves for a half an hour and decided to paddle out. the waves were super fun and the water felt good. surfed for an hour or so, jumped back in the car and drove down to kushimoto. it took an hour and on the way, we stopped in taiji city. yes, taiji, the city where the dolphin killings occur every year. it was a trip…. seeing the killings on video was one thing, but going to that very same bay yesterday was another. all kind of feelings were running though my head. i’ll get to that later but going there really opened up my eyes. there’s 2 sides to every story and the taiji dolphin killings is no different.
anyway, jumped in the water for a short dive. gosh, there is so much fish in wakayama. felt kind of weird because i seen some cool fish. i even speared a good size “kumu”. i must have seen 20 or so 3-4lbs kumu’s all over the place. that’s how it use to be in hawaii back in the day… anyway, after getting out of the water from the dive at 1:30pm, i jumped on a 3 hour train back to osaka. then transfered to the shinkansen on another 3 hour ride back to yokohama. then an hour back to shonan. so my 3am morning that started off in wakayama, ended at 11pm at night in shonan….. slept like a baby after that….
got some cool photos from this past trip and will get to them later… have a nice day….

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide