good evening. went to surf bowls today around 10am. perfect timing. seen the locals coming in from the morning session. tats, hiro, and keiko told me the waves were fun. yes it was fun. shoulder high sets with perfect conditions. only had 3 guys out when i paddled out and 2 of them were japanese. i think i scored. got some perfect long lefts today. felt good to be back in hawaiian waters….
carter met me out today on his new glenn minami bullet. i let carter try mine a month ago and he was hooked. he got his own now….
i met these two girls at aoi koike’s bodyboard tour 2 years ago. i was ready to jump into the water when they called me. i was so happy they remembered me. they both came to hawaii for only 2 days and they scored today. perfect bowls with nobody out. what a small world….
i’m a booring guy when it comes to movies. i go to a movie theater once in every 3 years if i’m lucky. i think the last movie i went to see in the theater was Titanic. anyway, been hearing a lot about this movie “Life” in japan. it’s a documentary about a pro japanese windsurfer that passed away due to cancer. i heard a lot was filmed in hawaii so i really wanted to see it. it was playing in osaka so i went to go check it out. gosh….. bring the tissue… i don’t want to say anything about this movie because i think everybody should see it. it’s about love, courage, family, friends, respect, and dedication. i was glued to my seat while watching it and after i left the theater, i felt sad, but yet, so happy. doing what i do, i totally felt the feelings of the actors in the movie. it was sooo real….. please go and see it. i heard 6,000 people showed up to watch it in waikiki when they showed it a couple of weeks ago and nobody was complaining. i wish i went too because i heard the family, and actors went up on stage after. it must have been awesome….
this is the family the the documentary is based on. i wish i can meet them someday and give them all a hug…. gosh, i feel like crying now….
