good morning. 6:30am and still some small waves in town. waist/chest high sets at bowls and not that crowded. 12 guys out there, 8 out at rockpiles, and 20 or so at the park. i guess everybody’s burnt out. so am i but when you have a 11 year old kid staying with you that wants to surf 3 rounds/day, you have to surf. so surf it is… we’ve been surfing all rights up until now so probably hit bowls or kewalo’s. have a nice weekend and see you in the water…
i came home a couple of days ago and opened my garage. 3 big heavy containers on a shelf fell over and landed right on my surfboard. not on just any surfboard, but my magic one. yeah, this is my baby and when i seen this, i almost called the ambulance. gosh, i still have a broken heart…. shun looked at me and actually felt sorry. i asked him what would he do if it was his magic board. he said “cry”. yeah, i already did that…..
last night was izakaya night at my house. hayato and my chef friend brandon came by and took over the kitchen. i just sat down like i was in a izakaya and ate, ate, and ate… katsuo tataki, abalone, dashi tamago, smoked pork, abalone, tuskemono, fried aku, and aku bone. i felt like a pig after that…. gochisousama deshita… you guys can come over anytime….
and last, you seen it first here. yeah, this is a photo of bol pulling a huge air at padang padang in bali. yeah, there is a huge ship that ran aground and is stuck on the reef. that ain’t stopping the boys from surfing…. this photo ain’t out yet but i guarantee you that it will be in some major surfing magazine. or magazines…. yeah bol…
