The Loft: By Ichiriki in Hawaii….

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good evening. heard the waves down at some selected spots in mokuleia were going off this morning. big barrels? yeah, everybody knows i can’t surf but somehow want to rub it in yeah? yeah, i wish i could surf, i wish i could dive, and i wish i could drive my car. you guys better stop rubbing it in….

there is a new cool bar in town. it’s upstairs from ichiriki and it’s pretty dam cool. clean, mellow, good atmosphere, and cool owners. got candles, sofas, and relaxing music. the sofa was so comfortable that i almost fell asleep. and i wasn’t the only one….

check out the daily specials. saturday was $5 chilled shots so chilled shots it was…..

do you know how to tell if a bar in hawaii is happening or not? if there’s a lot of japanese chicks throwing you the peace and shaka sign, it’s pretty much happening. check it out…

and last, i was surprised when i went to the hospital to get a checkup. i took off the patch and my eye looked pretty good. even my doctor was surprised. i wanted to ask him if i could go surfing today but didn’t want him to think i was crazy.. haha… but i’m stoked so far on the results. it was only yesterday when i could see needles, scrapers, and knives digging in my eye while i was awake. gosh, it was like a nightmare. i still have to wear a patch over my eye for the next week so i’ll still be tripping all over the place. my poor right eye is so tired… goodnight..

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide