Happy Halloween….

207

good chilly aloha friday happy halloween morning. gosh it was cold last night. the first time i had to use a blanket. looking at the waves today and it’s looking small but fun. north shore finally came down into the 1-2′. town is waist high with a couple guys out at bowls already. and it’s still dark outside. these are the kind of days you throw in a DVD and stay in bed. that’s what everybody should do. as for me, i’m going surfing.. haha.. hey, give me some waves ok. i’m still trying to make up for those 3 weeks out of the water… have a nice halloween day….

when i was in elementary school, i wanted to be a JPO or junior police officer. but my teacher said i was too bad and never gave me the chance. i’m glad she did because i probably would have did the opposite they told me to do. i pass by this JPO almost everyday and i still get jealous till this day. i feel like stealing his sign and taking his place….

Happy Halloween!!! boo! boo! gosh, tonight’s going to be nuts and i can’t wait to be a nut too….

oh, wanted to thank toda-san and takami-san for all my halloween goodies. i’m going to eat all of it today!!!
**and last, wanted to say thanks to roger for sending me this cool video of yuigahama. roger’s been checking out my youtube videos and that’s how i met him. we should get together and make some hawaii/japan surf vids for everybody to see. that would be cool… i’ve watched the sunrise at this same beach before and let me tell you, it’s pretty awesome. makes me want to go back…. thanks roger….

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide