hello hello, i was driving out to the north shore trying to figure out where to surf. go upside? go mokuleia? i was on the phone for the hour drive getting the reports from everywhere. everybody said mokuleia was the spot this morning so mokuleia is where i went. i surfed this 4′ super good left hander that was just perfect. take off, do like 6 turns, kick out, paddle back out, and do the same thing. 2 hours and i had enough and was happy. it was good to see so many of my high school friends out there. the kind of guys i hardly see in the water because i’m always surfing the crowded spots on the north shore. but now i know where they go. it was the first time i surfed that spot and i don’t even know the name of it. but the next 6′ north/north/west swell with south winds, i’m going straight back there. it was good to do something off the ordinary this morning. i surf mokuleia about 1 time a year for my first round of the day. now i know what i’ve been missing. you guys will see me there a lot more this year. that’s for sure….
if you know mokuleia good, you know where this is…
after a good surf, a good meal is a must. teri chicken plate? can’t go wrong… after i ate lunch, i was ready to head back to town before traffic. but figure i’d better check haleiwa just in case. i knew the winds were good, but i thought the waves might be too small and it’s probably going to be crowded. negative thinking is not good kirby. so i pull up anyway. i seen six 5′ perfect offshore sets rolling through barreling all the way with hardly anyone out. i couldn’t believe it? i grabbed my 6’0 shortboard, ran to the beach, paddle out, and surfed one of the best haleiwa in my life. only 8 guys were out and none were pro’s. every wave was barreling from take off to end. and no current. i’d give today’s conditions a perfect 10. and if it was 8-10′ , it would be a perfect 20. i was driving back to town a happy surfer. i was singing karaoke and everything in my car….
i get out of the water at haleiwa and bump into seisho bypass local yasuko shinozuka, who was parked next to me. i don’t know if she knew it, but today’s haleiwa was as good as it gets. yasuko is here for 2 months so expect to see this japanese surfer girl ripping up the north shore. i seen her surf her home break in japan before and she surfs really good. oh, wanted to say hello to all the locals at the seisho spots. hope you guys are having a happy holiday season….
**TRAFFIC ALERT: if you plan to drive into town from the north shore, don’t use the haleiwa road to wahiawa unless you want to be stuck in traffic for an hour. their doing construction and everybody’s been warning me. use the wailua road…
**HIGH WIND ALERT: go outside and tie everything down because tonight is going to be a crazy windy night. and bring your shoes in the house and close the windows because the wind and rain are coming from the opposite direction. and please nobody wake me up tomorrow morning. it’s my long awaited day off. good night….
