Billabong Pipeline Masters Final Day Today…

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good morning. first of all, i’d like to say congratulations to my cousin Shannon Goss for writing the script for last nights ER. i watched it and it was super good. and when i seen her name on the credits, i was so happy. congratulations shannon… as fro the surf, the dirty water pipeline masters final day is ON!! starting at 8am, the guys will be hitting the water looking for brown dirty barrels. ummm,,,, should it watch it online? or should i go watch it live? tough call. the weather’s looking pretty fine so i might go out, watch the contest, and surf haleiwa on the way back. i remember 5 years ago when the final pipe masters day was 10-15′ and perfect. i left the contest early and surfed haleiwa. it was 12′ and perfect!! it was me and 5 guys out loving life. i think shuji kasuya was out too. in fact, i remember when tony use to drag me out at 15′ closeout haleiwa and there would only be one other guy out. that was shuji. those were the days…. crazy days… anyway, i feel like surfing now so i’m going out to the north shore. with my umbrella. have a nice day….

yesterday was a good day to train in the gym. i wanted to do something different so i put on my running shoes, ran 30min on the treadmill, then hit 10 different weight machines doing 3 sets of 20 reps. only resting 30 seconds between sets. i was sweating so much and it felt good. i think i lost 5 lbs in the gym. then after i came home and ate 2 brownies and potato chips… haha. all that training for nothing….

hey, look where my other license plate ended up in japan. next to a japanese gorilla….

my friend craig sako always keeps me up to date on the traveling. he was in japan last month with kevin chong (Chef Mavro’s Executive Chef) for cooking seminars and testing out the grinds. here they on their 2nd plate of Kobe Beef in Ginza. gosh, the bill must have been nuts. i love eating kobe beef but when the bill comes, i feel like running away…. too dam expensive. i’ll just stick to eating wild boars, it’s free…

Sound, Mind, and Body are doing a christmas jam at snappers December 20th. 9-12 at snappers. see you there….

and last. BILLABONG PIPELINE PRO ON TODAY. FINAL DAY SO DON’T MISS IT…. CLICK HERE….

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide