went for a few late drinks last night at the izakaya called Ojiya. it’s across the street of the convention center next to quiksilver. my first time and definately not my last. the raw oysters are the best i’ve eaten on this island. big and creamy. $3/each, not bad. oh, wanted to say sorry to this japanese girl named mari. i’ve been bumping into her all over this island and everytime i see her, i think she’s mito. so i just walk up to her and say “what’s up!!”. then i look good, and it’s not mito. i feel so stupid…. i don’t even know her. but now she knows me. she must think i’m the weird guy from hawaii that walks up to any girl and start talking to them like i’ve known them for years. next time i see her, i’m going to take a photo and show you how much they look alike… honto ni gomenasai…
so there i was sitting next to bobby higa eating my creamy oyster and enjoying my asahi super dry. then he tells me, want to see my scar from my snowboard accident surgery? i said “no”. but he insisted and rolled up his jeans and showed it to me. my oyster didn’t taste too good after that….
i had 3 hours of sleep last night. but when the waves are pumping, i’m surfing. surfed 6-8′ solid sunset this morning. rode my 7’4. so there i was on the outside looking for my first big wave of this season, i see this big 8′ mountain set coming in and everybody was too far over. i was right in the spot so i turned around and paddled my ass off. the strong off shore winds blowing in my eyes, i free fall to the bottom, then start to set up for a bottom turn…. yeah, i was so stoked that i was going to get an unreal wave off the start….. but there he was, satoshi kubota dropping in on me. i had to go straight and got pounded. thanks satoshi…. i owe you one… haha….
*anyway, waves dropped this evening and so did the buoy. i know where the spot will be tomorrow morning but i ain’t saying anything. i’ll be out there first light. have a great evening….[:Zzz:][:Zzz:]
