good evening. today was shun’s 2nd time surfing pipeline. i asked him if he was scared. shun said “no”. wow… i surfed pipe over 1000 times and i’m still scared of that place…
when off the wall or backdoor is in the 3-4′ range like it was today, you will find almost every japanese photographer and pro surfer right here. this is team japan’s hangout. kinsan, nakajima-san, oomori-san, hayato, kenji, naoka, kenyu, matchi, shun, isuzu, muramatsu-san, hiromichi-san, genki-san, shimpei, kondo-san, kamio, and a whole lot more where there today. we should have brought the barbecue out…
i went to longs today to pick up the new hawaii skin diver magazine. next to it was the hawaii fishing news. shit, i know that guy!!! that’s lance hookano. lance is a pro longboarder and charges the biggest waves on the north shore. when lance paddles out, i paddle in. why? because he catches every dam wave in the ocean. don’t get me wrong, i love the guy, but hate to surf with him. he’s a paddle machine and catches every wave that comes in. and if you don’t believe me, ask everybody out there. they know.. haha… anyway, i was stoked to see lance on this months cover carrying his 118 lbs. ulua or GT he caught. next time i see lance, i know i’ll hear the whole story. and i can’t wait…. congratulations lance… and next time we surf, please give me a wave. at least so i can go in… haha…
**WARNING. i’ve known lance for 20 years so i can joke about him. if you don’t know lance, please don’t joke about him because this guy will shove his big fist down your throat. and i’ve seen it done before… just thought i’d give you a heads up….
and last, go-naminori blog session at the go-naminori house. naoka and kinsan. check out everybody’s blogs on GO-NAMINORI.COM…
and last last, i walked to check out rocky point this afternoon and i seen only 5 guys out. 2 of them were matchi and shun. those guys scored!!! check out this floater by shun murakami. big floater for a small kid. more photos tomorrow morning… goodnight…
