good morning. 5am. buoy 1 jumped up to 6 feet 17 seconds last night at 10pm so i set my alarm for 5. i was going to surf town before going to the north shore, but not anymore. the waves should be epic today and that’s where i want to be. i can see some 4′ sets with the full moon light. it should build throughout the day. yeah!!! the next swell came early and hopefully not too many people know about it. have a nice day and see you in the water. oh, and for you townies, south swell still solid 2 maybe 3’….
we went to eat at our favorite chinese restaurant near my house last night. shun looked pretty tired because he surfed hard all day. we slept early and being that today is his last day, we are going to surf all day long again. the best spot on the island? we’ll be there…. hope to see you too….
i was driving through waikiki the other night and seen a japanese street girl. i remember a long time ago when this corner use to be packed with aggressive prostitutes, male and female. then the cops cracked down and they were all gone. so i was pretty surprised to see one standing there, especially a japanese one. WARNING: here’s some friendly advise for japanese tourists that fall prey to prostitutes. be very careful because some of these girls are cruel and would do anything for money. if your lucky, they will steal your wallet and watch. if your unlucky, they will take a photo of you with a cucumber up your ass and post it all over the web. then how would you explain that to everybody??? i asked this girl to take a photo of her clients and send it to me. it’s good for my blog… haha…
**by the way, if your wondering, the reason why i was at that corner that night. there is a bank machine right in front there. and that’s why this girl was waiting there. smart girl yeah??
