here i am in indonesia sitting in my room at 4am. awakened by the loud chanting outside my room. yes, staying right next to a mosque and the chanting could be heard for miles and miles. i’m wondering how anyone can sleep through this? since i’m up, i sit on my bed, do some meditation, and feel the power of muslim religion. awesome!
i don’t think there is anyone else in the world that’s more selfish than Kimura-san, except me. haha. maybe that’s why we get along so well. maybe that’s why we can make trouble to each other all day long. and maybe that’s why we have so much fun traveling anywhere in the world. it’s never boring when you’re with us.
stoked to be greeted with Mike Woo and his quiver of new boards. i picked a couple and threw it in the car. couldn’t wait to surf.
it’s crazy how this world revolves. shit happens, but true friendships last forever.
Yashin is our driver/bodyguard. when we walk around with him, everybody gets out of the way. he’s the indonesia Mike Tyson.
so cool watching the thousands of people on bikes racing to work in the morning. super cool, but very dangerous.
drove 3 hours out of bali and the farther away you go, the more beautiful it gets. fresh air and beautiful rice fields.
and of course, you will definitely see accidents. this is one of the most deadliest roads in the world. people die here everyday. and if you had to drive to G-Land 20 years ago like i did, you will know exactly where i’m talking about.
we seen 2 trucks on the side like this, many cars broken down, and even a freaking accident right behind us. if we were 3 seconds behind,it would have been us.
we checked a few spots and decided to surf this one. why? because it was freaking perfect! no wind, perfect waves, and just enjoying peaceful indonesia style. a massage on the beach and bintang during sunset to end the beautiful day.
