hello! i’m back! another hack on this Christmas Day. the third time this month we got hacked so somebody must love us a lot. haha. it take it as a compliment when ever something like this happens. but hey, just got to go with the flow and when we’re back, we’re back. i ain’t going anywhere…
well, got up early on this beautiful Christmas morning and paddled out in the dark again. the conditions were very calm and the waves were perfect. the surprise South swell is still pumping and all us surfers are loving it. i’ve been back to surfing and loving the feeling. instead of flying, i feel more connected with the ocean. stuck to it, riding it, and feeling every single bump along the way. totally different from foiling, but i love both.
Malcom on his gift from Santa…
anyway, hope you all had a wonderful Christmas day. i want to wish all my friends and family around the world a very Merry Christmas!
my all time favorite song goes something like this…
“I’m thinking about my friends, all round the world
wishing them all the best in the calm years
and thank you for the happy times that we spend
may our lives forever, be forever stronger…”
