Bowls: Love it or leave it…

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when first started surfing Bowls, i hated it.  it was so crowded, people would drop in on me, and i didn’t know how to surf that wave.  so yeah, it took time for me to figure it out, get to know people, and be able to surf that wave properly.  now i love it…

this is one spot on Oahu where it doesn’t matter if you’re a girl.  guys drop in on guys, and guys drop in on girls.  so if you’re expecting a gentleman , go surf somewhere else.  haha…

i’m sitting in the channel with my camera out.  i see this beautiful wave being ridden from the outside by a girl.

i was waiting for her to get closer so i can get the perfect shot.

then i see a guy look at her and start paddling for the wave.

i thought he was going to pull back but i thought wrong.

the guy dropped in, the girl had to straighten out, and i didn’t get the shot.   but i wasn’t surprised at all because this is Bowls.  you either love it, or leave it…

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide