i walked down the Cliff again in the dark, sat on the beach and watched the stars. then the sun started rising right behind Molokai. it was so beautiful!
when i paddled out, i was expecting hundreds of surfers coming out throughout the morning. surprisingly, it was pretty empty today? when i came in, the lineup looked uncrowded, and there were still lots of parking. where was everybody? the waves were epic!
there is a surfer girl that always catches the best waves in the morning. it’s like every time i go out there, she’s on the best waves of the day.
and i’m in the inside on my foil waiting for her to fall so i can get the leftovers. but she never ever falls! i think she’s from Japan. next time i surf Cliffs, i’m going to sit right next to her. haha…
glad to see snow back on Mt. Fuji! thank you Takami-san for making me feel better.
and look at Azumi-san go! omg, the waves in Ishinomaki look amazing to foil. i wish i could go there. but i’m not sure if i can go in the freezing water with boots, gloves, and a head cap. i get cold thinking about it. hope to fly with you someday Azumi-san!
