today was 4 out of 4. paddled out at dark and watched the most amazing sunrise. foiled a few waves, and i was totally satisfied and it was only 7am.
then it showered and out came a beautiful rainbow.
some surfers paddle out at this time, but i’m already coming in. done for the morning, and now i have the full day ahead. i love my foil…
thank you Chichan for sending me this Happy New Years Day photo of Honolua Bay on Maui. i surfed this spot many of times and every time it was magical. i still can’t believe there was a shark attack there last month, but that isn’t stopping everybody from surfing that magical place. can’t wait to go back…
