Triple Surfers…

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i woke up at 3am again and was so excited to foil.  i knew the waves were going to be perfect and it sure was!

getting out and foiling around with the sun rising like this is the best feeling.  i feel so free!

and the waves at Diamond Head were super perfect!  very glassy and clean conditions for everyone.

 

when you look at this, you will never think we’re in the middle of a pandemic.  this makes you forget about stuff like that…

 

i caught my last wave all the way to the beach.  it couldn’t have been a prettier day than this…

 

i hiked back up the cliff and watched the waves.  i was amazed on how uncrowded it was today.  i don’t think everybody knew how good it was going to be.  tomorrow expect the same conditions with triple amount of the surfers out…

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide