this time of year is pretty tricky to forecast. you can go by the surf report which is wrong most of the times, or you can go by seeing or feeling. since i’m already in the ocean at dark, i only can go by feeling. and so far, my feeling has been good because once i can finally see, the waves and conditions have been spot on perfect!
check out Kuta Beach in Bali. this is just one day of rubbish pilled up on the beach. yes, they pick up 90 tons of rubbish every single day off the beach in Kuta. this is one of the reasons why i stopped using plastic…
i went to the factory to check up on my new boards. almost done!
in Japan, it’s illegal to ride in the back of trucks. in Hawaii, it’s legal. BUT, i do not recommend riding in the back of trucks like this guy is. i saw this on the Likelike highway!!! that’s crazy!!!
