another morning of happiness. paddling out in the dark and waiting for the sun to rise while i’m flying around the ocean on my foil.
then i have to stop and take a photo of this breathtaking view.
surprise! another day of the swell from the North shore wrapping around the island to the South. it was bigger and better than yesterday. everybody was so happy!
i’m loving life on the South shore because head high waves feels like 20′ waves for me. same speed and just as dangerous. so yeah, pretty exciting!
lots of empty barrels too. i was hoping nobody rode this one because it looks better being unridden.
then i went to Diamond Head in the afternoon and had an even better session. tonight will be my record for sleeping the earliest. 6:30pm will be goodnight for me. tomorrow morning i’ll be the first out in the ocean! goodnight…
