i woke up early and drove all the way to the East side. parked my car, walked 10 minutes to the beach, and when i got there, it was totally flat! as i watched the sunrise, i started thinking about my next plan…
jumped back in my car and started driving around looking for waves. can’t complain when the view is like this right?
passed by Baby Makapuu and it was too small for me…
and also too crowded for me. so i jumped back in my car and started thinking. then i remembered a secret spot that loves this wind, and loves this wrap around swell from the North Shore. i parked my car and didn’t even check because i knew it was going to be good!
i paddle out and it was even better than i thought! just a couple local surfers enjoying this total secret spot. i caught wave after wave on my foil and had one of my best sessions of the year! my foil was flying, i was happy, and it’s days like this that make it all worthwhile. i love to search, and find!
i would have taken more photos of my session but there were only 3 guys out on this Sunday morning for a reason. secrets are best kept secret. my lips are sealed…
