The Panic Button: Part 2

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the talk of the surf industry now is about the massive close out set on the outer reefs.  there were like 20 jet skis and even a boat sitting safely in the deep channel.  that channel is a pretty safe place to be.  

but if you’re in the ocean and look out to the horizon, you will all of a sudden see black.  and when you see black, you know something huge is coming.  this is when a couple skis and the boat start pointing out to sea.

and when the black gets taller and darker, you start to wonder.  and when the swells are 50′ high, you better stop wondering and get the heck out of there!  

this is where you have to keep calm and analyze the situation in a split second.  one option is to try to make it over the wave, and the other is to turn around and head straight to the beach.  the boat had no option because it can’t outrun a 50′ wave.  however, the jet skis can.

some skis took the risk and went over the wave, and some skis turned around and headed in, which ended up being the right decision.  

flying up a 50′ wave on a jetski is not a good idea.  it’s like a ramp and you will fly over off top, and 25′ down the back.  

this particular jetski flew 30′ over the top, and 50′ down the bottom.  not good!  

this was posted online on what to do, and what not to do.  one guy broke his back but nobody died so they were very lucky.  i’m glad i wasn’t out there with Mayuki.  whew…

watch this video again and look how beautiful the ocean can be one minute, and a nightmare the next minute…

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide