North Shore Paddle In Foil to South Shore Dirt Bike Ride…

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i took a chance and headed out to the North shore in the dark early morning.  i wasn’t too sure how the waves were going to be but i needed a challenge.  i wanted something bigger and more exciting.  so i paddled out to this outer reef and nobody was there.  just me and these mountains!  

i couldn’t believe how perfect the waves were.  i went out searching for excitement, and i sure got it!  paddling into big waves with the foil is such an adrenaline rush!   after i came in, i was so tired…

i came back to town and was planning to take a nap.  then i find out my brother and sister were going to ride up to the mountain top.  i put my nap and everything else on hold…

i’m pretty stoked that Tammy is riding dirt bike now.  we had a blast up in the mountains!  can’t wait to go again!

left home at 5:30am and just got back at 7pm.  it was such a wonderful day in the ocean and the mountains!  can’t wait for what tomorrow brings.  goodnight…

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide