Kelly Slater Wins on 5'11…

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good evening. i went out to watch the contest and i’m glad i did. it turned out to be the backdoor fiesta. i saw some of the most amazing rides from kelly slater on his 5’11. yeah, i said 5’11….

the gallery was huge. i bet the internet gallery was even bigger…

i sat next to ben aipa during kelly and tim reyes semifinal heat. tim was winning big and kelly needed 2 big scores with only 8 minutes left. i told ben that i was going home because kelly was going to lose. ben said the same thing. 2 minutes later, kelly was winning the heat. yeah, he got a 9.0 and perfect 10 point ride in 2 minutes. superman? yup. ben and i were laughing. i call kelly superman and ben calls him superfreak… either or, he’s not human….

then the rain started coming so i headed to the billabong house…

and ate a billabong plate lunch. gosh, my dream is to buy that house and do the same thing. invite my friends from around the world, have chef craig sako cook up some meals, and enjoy life….

then i raced back in town before traffic because i felt like running for some reason. so running it was. i parked at kapiolani park and ran around diamond. i stopped by to check the waves and gosh, it looked fun. i wish i surfed instead of running.. haha… anyway, it took me 50 minutes to make that run non stop. does anybody know how many miles it is? up diamond head and back down monsarrat ave back to kapiolani park? i was sweating like a pig after. and now i feel like running the marathon on sunday. and also feel like eating ice cream…..
**DIRTY WATER ALERT: STAY OUT OF THE WATER FOR A FEW DAYS. THERE IS SEWAGE AND ALL KINDS OF BACTERIA IN THE WATER. EAR INFECTION? SINUS INFECTION? FLESH EATING VIRUS? IS IT WORTH IT? I DON’T THINK SO. AND GUESS WHAT? MORE RAIN ON THE WAY. COULD THIS BE ANOTHER 40 DAY NIGHTMARE? I HOPE NOT. KEEP YOUR FINGERS CROSSED….

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide