i love this time of year because the waves are hard to predict in town. the winds, the swell direction, and the weather changes everyday so you can’t just look at the surf report, you have to know where to check. i’ve been doing this for 30 years so the chances of going to the right spot is pretty good. imagine paddling out in the dark, then when the sun starts to rise, you’re all alone on a perfect shoulder high wave like this all to yourself…
and if you’re lucky like me, you will get 4:30am surf reports from the North Shore. i’m always on standby for that and when i get the call, i’m full speed out there. on this particular day, we had this whole surf spot to ourselves. score…
if you have time, watch Finding Aloha. it’s filled with the Hawaiian language, culture, and aloha. it’s pretty amazing…
