i pulled up to Diamond Head in the dark and was getting ready to go down the hill. then i looked at the sky and seen the coolest clouds forming where the sun was going to rise. so i drove over to the main lookout, sat on the wall, and watched nature do its magic…
omg, i was mesmerized! the redness was glaring off the ocean surface and it was the coolest feeling ever…
then i ran down the cliff, foiled for a while, and when i was done, i couldn’t believe how uncrowded Diamond Head was. you could take off from the outside and ride the waves all the way to the inside. absolutely perfect!
then went to pick up my little friend Leo. we had the Ala Moana ocean to ourselves!
yesterday was super bumpy and challenging. today was perfectly offshore and easy. Leo was pretty much surfing on his own. we were so happy out there enjoying wave after wave…
it feels so good to longboard again. i could ride the waves forever!!!
