i was thinking about going to surf Backdoor the other day. but when i saw the crowd on the camera, i changed my mind. there were a hundred hungry surfers hunting down anything that broke. 
for 33 years of my life, i use to surf Backdoor on every single good day. it use to be crowded like this so it was basically work. so now, i look at this and say “no thank you, i’d rather foil an ocean all to myself.” 
another photo of 2007. Kelia was only 14 years old. 
and last night when i went to see Kelia’s baby, i thought how time goes by so fast…
a couple years ago, Eri-chan gave me this in Japan. i had it and never used it. so when i went to take a shower last night, i took it, scrubbed it all over my body and hair. strangely, there were no soap suds. i thought it was weird but Eri-chan gave me weird organic stuff before so i used it anyway. then when i was finished with scrubbing my body, i remembered something. that wasn’t soap, it was wax!!! omg, i scrubbed my body with surf wax! haha. i can’t wait to tell her the story. haha…
