The Magic Begins…

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as i was walking down the cliff early this morning, i saw a guy with a flashlight walking down after me.  when he saw me, i think he was surprised to see me walking down in the pitch dark.

my feet are like gorilla feet.  i go mostly by feel because i can’t see a thing.

one of the early morning guys paddled out after and said “wow, early huh?”  in my mind, i was thinking about how i’ve been so dedicated to my New Years resolution which was to enjoy every single sun rise of 2021.  so far so good.  anyway, as the sky started to light up, i’m foiling and pumping back out watching the magic show begin…

and it only gets better and better…

and when it’s over, i’m catching my last wave to the beach…

then climbing back up the cliff, i’m thinking to myself “wow, this never gets easy.”  i’ve been walking up and down this cliff for the past 35 years of my life.  and when i reach the top, i’m totally out of breath.  haha…

change into warm clothes, jump in my car, and i have a full day ahead.  i’m going to do this for the rest of my life…

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide