opps, forgot to post this one… here it is:
i took a gamble and went out to the North shore in the dark. i wasn’t too sure how the waves were going to be but i thought i’d try to connect no matter what. once i got out, the conditions were absolutely perfect and nobody was out!
there were waves going down from the old swell and waves coming up from the new swell. it was very interesting and very fun to surf both swells at the same time.
nobody came out for an hour so it was nice to foil and watch natures magic show again. it’s crazy to see storms like this passing right over you…
once the storm passed, Fabian paddled out and we shared some waves, and a rainbow. thanks Fabian for the shots!
when your foil pops out, it feels like you just hit a rock. it will go from 25mph to an instant stop. and there is only one place for you body to land. landing hard and right in front of your foil. Fabian was laughing at me on this one. no pain, no gain. haha…
came back to town and went out to clear my lungs. free diving is the best way to do that. it was rough on the surface, but very calm under it.
junky winds and waves in town on this Sunday. super strong winds all week. so tomorrow i already know where i’m going so i’ll be sleeping by 6:30pm tonight. can’t wait till the morning comes…
