i left my house at 5:20 this morning and headed to Jurassic’s. i paddled out and it was still dark. waves were as good as it ever gets out there. so many waves breaking and the longest rides in the world. each ride is 2 minutes and about a mile long. the paddle back out takes super long but it’s easy knowing you will get another ride soon…
i got there right after 6am and i left there at 12:40pm. i foiled for 6 hours!!! that was the longest and most exciting session i had in over 20 years. my eyes were burnt, my arms sore, but my mind was in heaven…
if there was a lunch truck there, i would have ate lunch and went back out for 6 more hours. that’s how good it was. but i was very hungry so had to head back to civilization…
and if you longboard, this was the spot today. it was like Disneyland.
Jurassic’s is my favorite foiling spot on the planet. it hardly breaks but when it does, i make sure i’m out there! goodnight.