left home at 5am and very excited to spend another day in the ocean.
it was stormy and very windy. but it’s days like this i love the most. and it’s days like this only the crazy go out to play.
my first 4 waves, i had bad wipeouts. absolutely no power from overdoing it yesterday. but after my legs started to feel good and i was so excited. the feeling of the wind and rain stinging your eyes, you have to connect and everything will be alright…
shortboard, longboard, or foilboard. it’s a big ocean out there so everybody can enjoy. once again, one of the most beautiful places on the planet…