ONE LAST WAVE OF DEATH

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today was another day at Jurassic Park.  i went down earlier than anybody else and was the first in the parking lot.  i was too excited.   haha.  waves were super good again, bigger and better!  

Kaiborg riding out the storm.  it was so windy that it was hard to paddle back out.  once again, only the strong survive on days like this…

then i went to check out town and after i saw the perfect offshore waves this evening, i couldn’t resist.  i was the only foiler and had the whole empty swells to myself.  i foiled into the sunset!  

then i came home and turned on the news.  omg, a tree fell on the road and smashed cars right where i was today.  this happened right before 10am and i passed by this exact same spot at that time too!  it must had happened right after i passed by.  omg!!!  

thank goodness nobody died.  and thank goodness i didn’t catch one more wave.  that could have been me…

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide