everybody was saying the waves on the East side will be flat today, but when my house was shaking last night with the strong winds, i knew there had to be swell. so i gambled and headed to Jurassic’s. and guess what? there was swell! super good conditions and when i got there, there were only 3 foilers out. then after 3 hours of foiling, there were 30. everybody came late today so i was very lucky to get there early!!!
right when you leave Jurassic’s, there is a road with big trees on the left side. it was here yesterday where one of these trees fell on a moving car. 
it’s creepy to think the tree fell on the car literally minutes after i passed by. anything can happen at any minute so you have to enjoy your life to the fullest. that was one of the reasons i drove out there again today. i got another free pass at Jurassic’s! 
and the drive home is just breathtaking. this is about where i think to myself “i’d drive out here every single day it there were waves.” BUT, Jurassic’s is only good a few days out of the year. and for the past 7 days, i’ve been good!
i wasn’t the only one with the extra free pass today. so nice to see the happy faces during this crazy time of our lives…
