bigger and more challenging today at Diamond Head. just what i wanted because i love bigger and more challenging…
no rain, no rainbow…
everyday i’ve been adjusting my equipment and everyday it’s like riding a new surfboard. i actually get nervous on my first wave but if i look forward, bend my knees, and connect, everything is always ok…
by the time i came in, there were 40 surfers out and it got windy. even stronger winds starting tomorrow for the next week so hopefully Jurassic Park again!!!
