Break Time

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m5_069.jpg

at the temporary shelter in Onagawa. Give a Shaka, Give Aloha! Photo:
Shinsuke Matsukawa
here are my secrets to a well balanced life.
1. work hard and give everything a 100%.
2. know your limits.
3. never say never.
4. when you feel it’s time to take a break, take a break.
i work hard.
i don’t know my limits. haha.
i never say never.s
i take breaks.
so far, this year in 2011 has been the busiest year in my life.
before i overheat, i’m taking a break.
where i’m going? i don’t know.
i got a backpack with few clothes, a couple hundred dollars, and my
passport.
it’s that time for me to explore, learn, and experience.
i backpacked taiwan, indonesia, malaysia, korea, and thailand before so
those countries are not on my list.
i’m going to relax and give my body and soul a break.
i just hope the next airplane i board doesn’t break. haha
give me a few days to reset and i’ll be back 110% to finish this year
off with a bang!
as for my M5 journals, after i get all the photos from matsu, i’m going
to take you through what we experienced. but to sum it up in one
sentence, “things are getting better in some places, things are the same
in others, the radiation is still in the air, but everybody seems to be
moving forward, and that’s what’s important!”
see you around!

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide