2 Rounds of Waves and Water

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went out to Diamond Head early this morning.  it was very challenging when i first got out, then it got really good.  i love it onshore like this because the waves keep on pushing into one another.  so on the foil, you can drop into wave after wave. 

then went back for round 2 this afternoon.  even better than this morning!  another day of 5 hours in the sea…

after i came in, i saw a dark storm coming straight for Oahu.  i sat on the top watching it creep closer and closer.  it was so cool!

right in front of my eyes, you could see the wind change, the waves change, and the darkness coming near.  watching the whales jump outside was just the bonus from Mother Nature.

then the raindrops came.  i took this last photo and captured another bird flying by again.  i just love it!  now i’m home and the storm is here.  heavy rain, loud thunder, and bright lighting coming down right now!  be safe everyone…

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide