i thought the waves were going to be perfect this morning but a storm came through and the winds turned onshore. it might look ugly, but it was actually pretty good. not too many people and lots and lots of waves. it’s days like this you learn about the ocean, and about how to connect with the waves. i’d choose to surf a day like this rather than a glassy day with 100 surfers out. it was so peaceful!
sitting in the lineup watching the sunrise is always a great way to start off a day. everyday…
onshore winds and choppy conditions doesn’t matter to me anymore. i just pump out to a flat spot and do a turn that makes me feel so happy. it’s like surfing a perfect glassy 5′ wave. the only difference is this ride won’t end until i say so. cold North winds starting tomorrow and i know a place that will be super good! see you there, or maybe not? haha…
