went to Diamond Head early again and the waves were absolutely perfect! bigger, cleaner, and happier!
gosh, i think i only missed 2 sunrises this whole year so far. this is my happy time.
within an hour, it got super crowded. long wait for waves if you’re surfing, but no wait if you’re foiling.
this is the reason why i don’t feel bad dropping in on long boarders. some of them just have no etiquette at all…
anyway, Diamond Head was probably the best spot this morning and also the cleanest water on the island. tomorrow i know a special place that will probably be the best it’s been all year. i’ll be there in the dark…
