when you live your life searching for the perfect day every single day, you will be rewarded. nothing is guaranteed, but dedication pays off. i always try to put myself in the right place at the right time. it was my job as a traveling pro surfer for over 25 years. spent thousands of dollars, days on airplanes, lots of layovers, food poisoning, spider bites, and too many more hardships to list. so when you can just drive an hour from your house and end up surfing the best waves in decades, you’re pretty stoked. this day will be in the history books for years to come. honestly, i don’t think i’ll go back there for the rest of this year because i already got the best of the best. i’m ready for something new…
nobody expected a day like this. even locals living there for years were surprised. it wasn’t normal at all. the waves were big, the swell was strong, the sun was out, and absolutely no wind. when all those variables come together, you’re surfing a wave people pay thousands of dollars and travel around the world to find. so yes, i felt like i went on an Indonesia surf trip or something. but only traveled for 1 hour and spent $20 worth of gas. now that’s my kind of surf trip!
Surf your dream…
