i passed by Bowls and seen one of my friends waving at us. it was Lance Hookano. whew… glad i didn’t surf Bowls because he catches every single wave…
all i need is a little wave wash and i can connect wave after wave after wave. so i’m basically searching for a wave with the least amount of people. and when i find it, i’m flying like a free bird…
Jeannie Chesser was featured on the news as an inspiring Kupuna. she’s an amazing woman…
Jeannie’s been through so much in life. from losing her son to battling cancer. pure strength…
everybody in the surfing world knew who Todd Chesser was. cool, handsome, funny, and one of the best big wave surfers in the world. he passed away surfing big waves which was his passion. it was a big loss for Hawaii…
when i was working as a photographer, i had an assignment to take portraits of Jeannie. we had fun working tougher and this was the result. i have to say that this is probably the best portrait i took of anyone in my life…
